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H-Leg Bench by Rogue Engineer

Posted: August 14, 2017

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This week’s post is by Jamison from Rogue Engineer.

This past Thanksgiving my wife Jamie and I built, what we called, the H-Leg dining table because we needed a table that sat 10 people and we knew we would want to use it outside when it warmed up so we built it out of cedar. However, we never got around to building the benches to go with it. Well the time came where we really needed them so we stopped procrastinating and got to work.

I wanted to come up with a design that matched the style of the H-Leg table but didn’t want to go with the thickness of a standard 4×4 because, proportionally, I didn’t think it would look as nice. I also dropped the horizontal support so it would look a little less chunky. So yeah, I know it’s not technically an “H” but I’m okay with that.

Anyways, we hope you enjoy and feel free to come check us out at our site Rogue Engineer where we have hundreds of other DIY furniture plans and home improvement tutorials.

Cheers!

Jamison & Jamie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Materials (Makes 2 Benches):

  • Qty 2 – 2 x 6 x 8’ Cedar
  • Qty 2 – 2 x 4 x 8’ Cedar
  • Qty 3 – 4 x 4 x 8’ Cedar
  • Wood Glue
  • Qty 16 – 4” Strong-Drive® SDWS TIMBER Screws
  • Qty 38 – 2-1/2” Strong-Drive® SDWS FRAMING Screws

Required Tools:

  • Drill / Driver
  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
  • Circular Saw
  • Speed Square
  • Tape Measure
  • Pencil
  • Safety Glasses
  • Hearing Protection

Dimensions:

Cut Lists:

Step-By-Step:

Make Your Kids (and Neighbors) Happy with this Huge Impact/Low Effort DIY Lemonade Stand

Posted: August 7, 2017

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This week’s post is by our resident DIYer, Lydia Poulsen!

There’s just something about a DIY lemonade stand on a hot day that brings back childhood memories.  As a kid, I can remember always wanting to have a lemonade stand. Unfortunately, we lived in a cul-de-sac so it wasn’t exactly prime real estate for a business. My kids are luckier than I was since we live on a corner lot along a pretty busy street that is full of thirsty joggers, bike riders and folks passing by in their cars.

As soon as the weather warmed up this spring, my daughter was eager to set up her lemonade stand and this girl wasn’t going to let anything stop her. Being the resourceful girl that she is, she quickly went through the garage looking for anything that would hold her lemonade and decided an ironing board would suffice (at last, the ironing board is serving a purpose in my house!). She taped on her signs, made some lemonade and quickly ran outside to set up shop.

After watching her successfully sell lemonade for a few afternoons, we knew she was ready to learn the business basics. We explained to her that she’d need to invest her own money and in return she would benefit from all the profits made. Without hesitation, she spent her hard-earned money on lemonade mix and we supplied the cups. We told her that if any neighborhood kids helped out, then she would need to share a portion of her profits. After making $30 in just a couple hours, we figured it was time to get real and build her a sturdier DIY lemonade stand.  An ironing board does the trick, but seriously, how cool is it having your very own DIY lemonade stand?

We are in the process of building a new fence (okay, paying someone to build a fence), so the old fence boards were perfect for this project. I love being able to utilize old material, not to mention it keeps the farmhouse rustic look I love.  My husband, who did most of the building, started by framing it out with 2×2 lumber and plywood boards but I added the finishing touches with our new Outdoor Accents® decorative hardware line. (NOTE:  haven’t done this yet but trying to see how I can add these in).   Adding the APA4 angles to the corners gave it the perfect finishing touch.

After my son saw the cash coming in, he wanted to be a part of this lemonade stand venture too. He’s a little too young to understand the whole partial investor idea (not to mention he won’t sit longer than a few minutes), so we had to be clever on what role he would play in this business. His personality was perfect for advertising so we made him in charge of marketing the lemonade stand.  You can see that he did a wonderful job on the signage.

It’s been magical watching everyone’s reactions to the DIY lemonade stand. There are smiles all around and you can see customers remembering the good old days of their own childhood. I have heard many customers commenting how they haven’t seen a lemonade stand in years! I love that my kids got to experience so many of our neighbors coming out to chat because of their lemonade stand!

All the neighborhood kids either wanted to help or became customers. They eagerly ran down the street with their quarters to buy lemonade. It’s like watching the Little Rascals show come alive from my front yard. Not only did the kids have fun doing this, but they learned valuable life skills at the same time. You can’t beat that! I highly recommend the small amount of effort it takes to build a hugely impactful DIY lemonade stand – get building!

Estimated Material List:

Outdoor Dining Table

Posted: July 31, 2017

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This post is part of an occasional series featuring guest bloggers who are Simpson Strong-Tie brand ambassadors. Today’s post is by Jaime Costiglio from That’s My Letter. Thank you Jaime

When the weather cooperates, my family eats dinner outdoors and that could be nearly every evening in the warmer months.  But we had an old flimsy metal table that only fit four chairs properly for our family of five.  We needed an outdoor dining table to fit our patio space so in true DIY fashion, I built one to accommodate not only my family but a few extra spots for company as well.

This round outdoor dining table is perfect for everyday dinners on our front patio as well as entertaining friends and family.

With a solid post base and Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents hardware, this outdoor dining table is super sturdy and looks beautiful while holding up to the elements.

I built the round top with a 65” diameter simply because that size fit my patio best.  This 65” size fits seven chairs comfortably with plenty of elbow room.

But the real star of the show here is the Outdoor Accents hardware, which not only adds beautiful contrast but provides strength and stability to the base.

These Outdoor Accent strap ties are installed using a hex head washer and structural wood screw made specifically to fit this hardware.  Simpson Strong-Tie has eliminated any guesswork and made the installation completely user friendly.

Below are the materials and tools necessary to build this table along with step-by-step instructions.  Be sure to read through all steps before beginning and always follow all safety precautions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Materials:

  • 2 – 4x4x10 pressure treated posts
  • 5 – 2x4x8 pressure treated studs
  • 5 – 5/4 x 12 deck boards
  • 8 – Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents APL 4 strap ties
  • 24 – Outdoor Accents Hex Head washer
  • 24 – Outdoor Accents Structural Wood Screw
  • 4 – Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents APA 4 90 angle (optional)
  • 2 1/2” exterior pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2” exterior wood screws

Tools:

  • miter saw
  • drill
  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • pocket hole jig
  • jig saw or router
  • sander

Cut List:

Base:

  • 4 – 4×4 @ 27 3/8” (legs)
  • 4 – 4×4 @ 24” (base cross supports)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 24” (base top supports)

Top:

  • 1 – 2×4 @ 61” (top support)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 39 1/2” (top side supports)
  • 3 – 5/4 deck boards @ 66” (top)
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 64”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 59”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 51”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 38”
  • 6 – 2×4 @ 17”, both ends 20 miter cut not parallel (top apron)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 20”, one end 17 miter, one end 15 miter, not parallel (see Step 4 sketch)

Step 1: Make the legs.  Attach legs to top support using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.  Attach legs to base cross support using Simpson Strong Tie Outdoor Accents APL4 strap tie with hex head washer and structural wood screw.

Make 2.

Step 2: Create the base by attaching the two leg sets together.  Using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws at top support.  Attach base cross support using APL4 strap ties.  Consider APA4 90 angle on interior corners for more support.

Step 3: Make top.

NOTE: your boards should be cut straight at this point.  You will cut the circular shape later.  Begin with the longest middle board and attach at center to cross supports using 2 1/2” exterior wood screws.  Working your way out from the center leave 1/4” spacing between boards and continue to attach all deck boards to cross supports.

Tip: Use 1/4” plywood scraps as spacers between deck boards.  This makes attaching the boards faster and ensures even spacing between all boards.

Step 4: Attach top apron pieces using 2 1/2” exterior wood screws as per sketch above.

NOTE: miter cuts and board lengths are not all the same.

Now flip over top and cut out circular shape.  Insert a screw at center and using twine and a pencil mark 34” all around edge for an even circle.  You can use a jigsaw or router.

Step 5: Attach base to top at supports using 2 1/2” countersunk exterior wood screws. * I suggest working upright to avoid having to tip the whole table over.  The sketch above is for instructional purposes so you can see where the base lines up with the top supports.

Sand well and finish as desired.

I haven’t applied any stain or finish to this table rather I’m going to let it grey out naturally.

2017 Haven Conference Recap

Posted: July 24, 2017

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We were so excited to attend the annual Haven Conference for DIYers and Designers who blog this past weekend.

With over 300 bloggers in attendance, we got to meet the best crafters and woodworkers from all over the country. We heard about their projects and awesome ideas and even got to go to a class with Clint Harp from Fixer Upper. Our own brand ambassadors Jen Woodhouse and Jaime Costiglio taught an energetic class on how to build the cutest drink caddy with products from our new decorative hardware line, Outdoor Accents®.

We’re looking forward to hearing about your experience at Haven and what inspired your next project – especially if you plan on using Simpson Strong-Tie connectors, fasteners or hardware!  We got lots of great ideas this weekend and can’t wait to share with you what we are sketching up for the next few months. Until then, stay hydrated and stay tuned!

Fence Post

Posted: July 17, 2017

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This post is part of an occasional series featuring guest bloggers who are Simpson Strong-Tie brand ambassadors. Today’s post is by Jaime Costiglio from That’s My Letter. Thank you Jaime!

Curb appeal and yard improvements can give you major bang for your buck, especially when you do the work yourself.  Adding a fence is one project that can dramatically enhance your property in many ways. I created an architectural element by raising a split rail fence on one edge of our property to make a nice divide between our yard and the neighbors’.

And I was able to install this fence with ease using Simpson Strong-Tie fence brackets:

These fence brackets make the connection between the rails and posts simple, quick and strong.  There’s no need for toenailing or trying to screw the rail to the post.  I’m sharing the steps below on how to install a split rail fence using Simpson Strong-Tie fence brackets.

Above are the dimensions for one section of my fence.  Be sure to measure your space and account for the frost line, depending on where you live.

Materials:

  • (3) 4×4 x 10ʹ pressure-treated posts
  • (8) 2×6 x 8ʹ pressure-treated boards
  • (16) Simpson Strong-Tie FB26 connectors
  • (96) #9 x 1½” Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive® SD Connector screws
  • Gravel
  • Rapid-set concrete

Tools:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Drill
  • Post hole digger
  • Plant auger (optional)
  • Measuring tape
  • Level
  • String
  • Stakes

Cut List:

  • (5) 4×4 @ 54″ (posts)
  • (8) 2×6 @ 96″ (rails)

Step 1. Determine placement of posts and drive stakes into ground at each post location.  Use string to keep the stake line straight.

Step 2. Using a plant auger, loosen up the soil where the post will go, then use the post hole digger to make the hole.  Keep checking for proper depth.  I live in lower NY, and my posts are 16″ in the ground and 38″ above ground.  I actually dug an 18″-deep hole, then filled the bottom 2″ with gravel.  Insert the post, check for level and plumb, then add 4″ more gravel.  Add mixed concrete (rapid set) and let dry.

Step 3. Attach the FB26 fence connector to the post 5″ from the top.  Then insert 2×6 rail and attach at connector.

It really is just that easy.  Once you have all the rails attached, step back and enjoy your new view!

It’s amazing what a little effort can produce! This fence project was made super simple using the Simpson Strong-Tie fence connectors.

Do you have a border that could benefit from a fence? A side yard that needs to be marked off from the neighbors’ property? I always dreamed of having a little fence, and I’m so happy I finally took action and made that dream a reality.

DIY Done Right Summer Schedule

Posted: July 10, 2017

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If you follow our weekly blog, you may have wondered where we have been. Well, we’re officially on our summer schedule, which means we’ll be posting a couple times each month instead of our regular weekly posts. But don’t fret; we’ve got some great new projects coming up, including a backyard wood fence project by Jaime Costiglio from That’s My Letter.

We’re also very excited to be exhibiting at Haven in Atlanta next week. Whether this is your first time attending the conference or you’re a “Haven Maven,” we hope to see you at the Simpson Strong-Tie booth. We’re giving away some great prizes and sponsoring a class where you can build your own wooden drink caddy. You’ll be hearing more about Haven in a future post.

We hope you’re enjoying summer and working through your list of DIY projects.

How To Build a DIY Outdoor Table

Posted: June 12, 2017

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Editor’s note: This post is part of an occasional series featuring guest bloggers who are Simpson Strong-Tie brand ambassadors. Today’s post is by Elisha Albretsen from Pneumatic Addict. She is a mom of twin boys and describes herself as an independent former hairstylist who loves to build. She built a beautiful custom DIY Outdoor Table with our new Outdoor Accents® decorative hardware line. Thank you, Elisha, for this post. 

Isn’t outdoor entertaining this time of year the best? Hanging out in the backyard is a comfortable way to spend a beautiful evening. After building my rolling grill island last year, we’ve been spending a lot more time outside — so I decided I needed to build us a cool outdoor dining table.

When looking for inspiration, I found all sorts of gorgeous DIY tables, but many of them were too large for my small patio and too rustic for my style. Then, while walking through the building materials section of Home Depot, I spotted tempered glass deck railing panels and came up with a design that matches my patio style. I built a glass-topped dining table and accented it with some gorgeous Outdoor Accents® decorative hardware from Simpson Strong-Tie. I love how it turned out!

Get the FREE building plans for this project HERE.

Materials List:
(2) 4 x 4 x 96″ redwood posts
(3) 2 x 4 x 96″ redwood boards
(4) 2 x 2 x 96″ redwood posts
(1) 43″ x 36-5/16″ x 1/4″ tempered glass panel
(8) Simpson Strong-Tie® Outdoor Accents APA4 90° angles
(16) Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents hex-head washers
(8) 3-1/2″ Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents structural wood screws
(8) #10 x 1-1/2″ Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents connector screws
(8) #10 flat washers
2-1/2″ pocket-hole screws

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Power drill
  • Pocket-hole jig
  • 3/8″ drill bit
  • 3/16″ drill bit
  • 1/8″ drill bit
  • Wood glue

Cut List
(4) 4 x 4 post @ 28-1/2
(2) 2 x 4 board @ 31-15/16″
(2) 2 x 4 board @ 37-9/16″
(1) 2 x 4 board @ 41 9-16″
(2) 2 x 4 board @ 17-1/4″
(2) 2 x 2 post @ 42-1/8″
(2) 2 x 2 post @ 39-7/16″
(2) 2 x 2 post ripped to 1-1/4″ x 1-1/2″ @ 42-1/8″
(2) 2 x 2 post ripped to 1-1/4″ x 1-1/2″ @ 33-7/16″

1. Use a miter saw or circular saw to cut four 28-1/2″ legs from 4 x 4 posts.

  1. Cut two, 2 x 4 x 31-15/16″ aprons and drill two 1-1/2″ pocket holes on each end. Connect leg pairs together with aprons flush to the top and outside edges of the legs. Secure through pocket holes, using wood glue and 2-1/2″ pocket-hole screws.
  1. Attach 37-9/16″ aprons between panels. Secure in place using wood glue and 2-1/2″ screws driven through 1-1/2″ pocket holes.
  1. Drill two 1-1/2″ pocket holes on either end of the 2 x 4 x 41-9/16″ cross support. Find the center of the 37-9/16″ aprons. Align the cross support and secure in place using wood glue and 2-1/2″ pocket-hole screws.
  1. Center cross support sides on cross support. Attach using wood glue and 2-1/2″ screws, driven through 1-1/2″ pocket holes.
  1. Now assemble to top frame. Since the glass panel cannot be cut smaller, make sure to double check your measurements before cutting the frame pieces. If anything, err on the side of too large instead of too small.

Cut two 2 x 2 x 42-1/8″ posts and two 2 x 2 x 39-7/16″ posts. Attach longer frame pieces to shorter frame pieces through 1-1/2″ pocket holes, using wood glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

  1. To create a 1/4″ groove for the glass panel to sit in, the 2 x 2 sub-frame pieces need to be cut down lengthwise or “ripped” to 1-1/4″ x 1-1/2″. Cut two 42-1/8″-long pieces and two 33-7/16″-long pieces.

Align longer sub-frame pieces inside the tabletop frame. Use a 1/8″ drill bit to predrill holes every 8″ horizontally through the sub-frame and into the outer frame. Secure the sub-frame in place using wood glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

  1. Place the top frame on the table base and allow a 1/4″ overhang on each side. Countersink three 3/8″ x 2″ holes on the bottom side of each apron. Predrill into the underside of the top frame, using a 1/8″ drill bit. Secure top in place using 2-1/2″ screws.

 

At this point, apply any stain or finish you plan on using. Although redwood holds up extremely well outdoors, I highly recommend using an oil-based paint or clear coat to protect the wood from the elements.

  1. Align an Outdoor AccentsAPA4 90° angle on each inside corner of where cross supports meet. Predrill through each hole, using a 1/8″ drill bit. Attach APA4s using  #10 x 1-1/2″ Outdoor Accents connector screws,  #10 washers and Outdoor Accents® hex-head washers.

The holes of the APA4s are in different locations on each side, so make sure to alternate their orientation so the screws on adjoining sides don’t hit each other.

  1. Align an Outdoor Accents APA4 90° angle on the outside of each leg, directly below the tabletop. Predrill through each hole, using a 3/16″ drill bit.

For each hole, slide an Outdoor Accents structural wood screw through an Outdoor Accents hex-head washer and drive the screws till snug.

  1. Carefully lower the tempered glass panel into the groove of the top frame.

That’s it! I placed my new outdoor table on the patio beneath my DIY solar chandelier, and I’m ready to entertain in style.

The view through the glass panel is definitely my favorite. The interesting supports and Outdoor Accents decorative hardware pieces look so cool in the center!

The smooth glass top also makes cleaning up spills a piece of cake; a pretty handy quality in a home with two messy boys.

The APA4 angles and hex-head washers are absolutely stunning! They are substantial and give my table a finished look. I used them decoratively for this project, but they are actually heavy-duty connectors and fasteners. They are a perfect solution for creating beautiful outdoor structures.

I love our new glass-top table and I’m excited to spend our summer evenings outside!

8 Critical Deck Connections You Should Know

Posted: April 17, 2017

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After a long drought in California, we are now experiencing a deluge of rain in Pleasanton. You know what that means: cabin fever! For some of us, a lot of time indoors means looking at Pinterest boards on décor, how to refresh our outdoor space and even BBQ recipes for when the weather warms up. While it is nice to think about how to dress up a deck, it’s important not to forget about deck safety. Since a deck is a place where kids love to be, don’t you want to make sure it’s as safe as the inside of your home?

A few weeks ago, I wrote Deck Safety: 5 Tips To Check Your Deck. One of the tips I shared was learning about critical deck connections. Critical deck connections are the connections on a deck that create a continuous load path. If your deck is built with a continuous load path, it will be better equipped to resist forces such as occupancy, wind, snow and earthquakes. Here are the 8 critical deck connections that you need to create a safe and secure deck:

Ledger Attachment

One of the most common causes of deck failure is a ledger that pulls away from the primary structure, resulting in complete collapse. It’s where the deck connects to the house and one of the most common failure points on a poorly built deck. It’s very important to use structural screws rather than nails to secure your deck ledger board to your home.

Joist to Ledger

This connection is required to provide bearing and in cantilever applications, resist uplift. Deck floor joists intersect into a beam or ledger board and must be properly secured to the framing of the house.

Joist to Beam

Beams must be secured to the joists that support the floor of the deck to resist lateral and uplift forces.

Beam to Post

At the point where a beam meets a post, it must be properly connected to the post in order to resist gravity, lateral and uplift loads.

Railing Post to Deck Framing

People often get injured due to weak or wobbly railings on a deck. Railings must be properly attached to the perimeter of the deck as well as the floor joists running underneath the deck.

Stair Stringer to Deck Framing

Stair stringers that run along each of the stair steps (or treads) must be secured to the deck framing.

Stair Tread to Stringer

Each stair step (or tread) must be properly connected to the stair stringers.

Post to Concrete

Post bases connect the post to the footing or concrete slab underneath your deck.

What do you do to get ready for deck season? Make sure to follow us on Facebook and Twitter for exciting upcoming contests and giveaways.

How to Make Your DIY Chicken Coop Cozy

Posted: April 10, 2017

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Editor’s Note: This week’s DIY Done Right blog post comes from Lydia Poulsen, Product Manager for National Accounts. Thank you Lydia, for this week’s post. 

Pinterest has captured a new style trend: farmhouse. Farmhouse style has become a downright obsession these days. Whether it’s mason jars or wood signs, barn doors or old furniture, you can’t help but be inspired by some kind of DIY project everywhere you go, and bringing this trend outside is no different.

Whether you live on an actual farm, or just in a residential housing tract (like me), everyone seems to want a piece of that farmhouse life. At least I do, which is why when we bought our new house last November, getting some chickens was at the top of the honey-do list. You can’t get any more farmhouse than raising your own chickens! Not only did we want farm-fresh eggs like Minara talked about in her last post, but we knew that our kids (ages 7 and 9) would be thrilled to have their very own chickens.

We started by spending countless hours on Pinterest researching chicken coop ideas and how to raise chickens. I should mention now that when I say “we,” I really mean my handy hubby. I consider myself a professional when it comes to pinning things on Pinterest, but he’s the one who makes the projects happen. Plus, if I didn’t give credit where it is due, I probably wouldn’t get fed (yes, he cooks, too). Now don’t get me wrong, I definitely consider myself a DIYer — I just like to stick to simple projects like refurbished furniture or crafty décor projects while he handles all the heavy lifting.

Build/Buy a Chicken Coop

So we looked at many ideas and found some pre-made chicken coop options available. Unfortunately, they were all pretty small and expensive. Since I work for Simpson Strong-Tie, however, it made sense that we consider building our own chicken coop, and one lucky day I came across a chicken coop that our Senior Testing R&D Lab Technician, Steve Ziagos, had built for the DIY hen house cut sheet that you may recall from a few weeks ago. Does this look familiar?

I saw it sitting there, all alone, just waiting to be used. So I asked the lab whether the DIY chicken coop needed a home. And just like that, I became the proud owner of my very own chicken coop.

I arranged for the hubby to pick it up (like I said, he makes the things happen) and, before I knew it, I had a DIY chicken coop in the backyard. And a weekend later, he was already working on “the additions.” The coop was great as is, but he’s not one to keep things basic. He wanted to make sure that the chicken coop was as cozy as possible for our new chickens.

Customize Your Coop with Additions

He worked his magic by adding a divided nesting area (a chick needs her privacy) with a drop-down door to let us easily grab those farm-fresh eggs. Throw in a splash of “barn-red” paint, and of course, no chicken coop would be complete without some wood border accents and white trim. Here is a list of our chicken coop additions:

Additions:

  • Plywood — one sheet of 4ʹ x 8ʹ, ½” or thicker
  • Hinges (for drop-down)
  • 24″ of chain (12″ for each side)
  • Latches (we used one for each side)
  • Roof tiles
  • Red barn paint
  • White paint
  • 1×2 lumber (about 6ʹ total for the hen house), extra for the wood border
  • Various screws

He didn’t stop there. He added a nice shingled roof to keep the residents dry and protected. We plan to add some stick-and-peel tiles to the nesting area as well for easy cleanup (that will be the kid’s job).

Select Your Chickens

Now that the coop was ready, it was time to get some chickens. Since raising chickens is all the rage right now, it wasn’t too hard to find some free, egg-laying chickens. We headed down to the local feed store with adult chickens in mind. I figured it would be a $25 bag of feed and we’d be on our way, but that would be much too easy. When the kids (okay, and me, too) heard the baby chicks cheeping, we were sold. Five baby chicks later, along with the entire starter kit to keep them alive and two very “egg-cited” kids, we were finally ready to head home.

Even though we have to wait five months before they start laying eggs, it seems worth it. I mean, how could you not want to take these adorable fluffy things home?

Enjoy Your Chicken Coop

So there it is. We have officially brought some country living to the city life. Speaking of city, it’s probably smart to check with your city chicken ordinance before you go falling in love with any chicks. My city doesn’t allow roosters and has a ten-hen limit, and they require that the living area is three square feet per bird. They require a permit as well. (See I did my homework.)

Next on the honey-do list are some raised planter boxes, which are already in the works. Wood has already been cut, and I just received my shipment of the ML26Zs for some added support. Our tiny farm is well on its way and we should be enjoying it all by this fall. Sounds to me like I can officially hang a well-deserved “Farmhouse” sign in my kitchen. Now that’s a project I can handle on my own!

What Are the Components of a Strong Wooden Fence?

Posted: April 3, 2017

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Spring is officially here and that means lots of outdoor entertaining. Is your outdoor space ready? While most homeowners focus on building a new deck or on deck maintenance, redoing your fence can transform your space. Do you know what the critical connections of a fence are? We will outline them here along with a sneak peek at our newest fence bracket, the FBFZ, just in time for spring.

Select the Right Wood

Since fences are exposed to the elements, using the right type of wood can make all the difference. Using woods like cedar, redwood or preservative treated lumber ensures that your fence lasts for years to come. Finishing with an exterior grade stain or paint is

Strong Fence Posts

It is essential to set your fence posts into the ground properly. This means for wood fences that are 6 feet tall, you need 2 feet of the post in the ground. It is also recommended that a 2’’ gap be maintained between the bottom of the fence and the ground to help prevent rot. We recommend that your fence posts be set in concrete for strength and durability.

Exterior Grade Hardware

Using connectors, screws and nails that are rated for exterior use will prevent rust and corrosion and ensure that your fence will last a long time. Using exterior-rated Simpson Strong-Tie connectors can save you on long-term costs by adding strength while minimizing repairs. The new patent-pending FBFZ flat fence bracket creates a simple and strong connection between the rails and posts. With a new flat-plate design, it is easy to install and creates a secure connection. It has a ZMAX galvanized coating for additional corrosion resistance, so you know you won’t have to worry about a rusty fence in a few years!

A well-built fence not only gives you some privacy, it gives you the peace of mind to know that your children and pets are out of danger’s way. Plus, who doesn’t love a nice picket fence? If you want to find out more about the FBFZ flat fence bracket, click here.