Outdoor Dining Table

Posted on July 31, 2017

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This post is part of an occasional series featuring guest bloggers who are Simpson Strong-Tie brand ambassadors. Today’s post is by Jaime Costiglio from That’s My Letter. Thank you Jaime

When the weather cooperates, my family eats dinner outdoors and that could be nearly every evening in the warmer months.  But we had an old flimsy metal table that only fit four chairs properly for our family of five.  We needed an outdoor dining table to fit our patio space so in true DIY fashion, I built one to accommodate not only my family but a few extra spots for company as well.

This round outdoor dining table is perfect for everyday dinners on our front patio as well as entertaining friends and family.

With a solid post base and Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents hardware, this outdoor dining table is super sturdy and looks beautiful while holding up to the elements.

I built the round top with a 65” diameter simply because that size fit my patio best.  This 65” size fits seven chairs comfortably with plenty of elbow room.

But the real star of the show here is the Outdoor Accents hardware, which not only adds beautiful contrast but provides strength and stability to the base.

These Outdoor Accent strap ties are installed using a hex head washer and structural wood screw made specifically to fit this hardware.  Simpson Strong-Tie has eliminated any guesswork and made the installation completely user friendly.

Below are the materials and tools necessary to build this table along with step-by-step instructions.  Be sure to read through all steps before beginning and always follow all safety precautions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Materials:

  • 2 – 4x4x10 pressure treated posts
  • 5 – 2x4x8 pressure treated studs
  • 5 – 5/4 x 12 deck boards
  • 8 – Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents APL 4 strap ties
  • 24 – Outdoor Accents Hex Head washer
  • 24 – Outdoor Accents Structural Wood Screw
  • 4 – Simpson Strong-Tie Outdoor Accents APA 4 90 angle (optional)
  • 2 1/2” exterior pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2” exterior wood screws

Tools:

  • miter saw
  • drill
  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • pocket hole jig
  • jig saw or router
  • sander

Cut List:

Base:

  • 4 – 4×4 @ 27 3/8” (legs)
  • 4 – 4×4 @ 24” (base cross supports)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 24” (base top supports)

Top:

  • 1 – 2×4 @ 61” (top support)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 39 1/2” (top side supports)
  • 3 – 5/4 deck boards @ 66” (top)
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 64”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 59”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 51”
  • 2 – 5/4 deck boards @ 38”
  • 6 – 2×4 @ 17”, both ends 20 miter cut not parallel (top apron)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 20”, one end 17 miter, one end 15 miter, not parallel (see Step 4 sketch)

Step 1: Make the legs.  Attach legs to top support using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.  Attach legs to base cross support using Simpson Strong Tie Outdoor Accents APL4 strap tie with hex head washer and structural wood screw.

Make 2.

Step 2: Create the base by attaching the two leg sets together.  Using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws at top support.  Attach base cross support using APL4 strap ties.  Consider APA4 90 angle on interior corners for more support.

Step 3: Make top.

NOTE: your boards should be cut straight at this point.  You will cut the circular shape later.  Begin with the longest middle board and attach at center to cross supports using 2 1/2” exterior wood screws.  Working your way out from the center leave 1/4” spacing between boards and continue to attach all deck boards to cross supports.

Tip: Use 1/4” plywood scraps as spacers between deck boards.  This makes attaching the boards faster and ensures even spacing between all boards.

Step 4: Attach top apron pieces using 2 1/2” exterior wood screws as per sketch above.

NOTE: miter cuts and board lengths are not all the same.

Now flip over top and cut out circular shape.  Insert a screw at center and using twine and a pencil mark 34” all around edge for an even circle.  You can use a jigsaw or router.

Step 5: Attach base to top at supports using 2 1/2” countersunk exterior wood screws. * I suggest working upright to avoid having to tip the whole table over.  The sketch above is for instructional purposes so you can see where the base lines up with the top supports.

Sand well and finish as desired.

I haven’t applied any stain or finish to this table rather I’m going to let it grey out naturally.